Trying to choose between microdermabrasion and chemical peels for skin resurfacing can be difficult. Microdermabrasion physically removes the outer layer of dead skin cells, to exfoliate the skin. Skin peels are painted on to remove layers of skin, and come in many different strengths. A light skin peel can be as shallow as microdermabrasion, but deeper peels can have a more profound effect on the appearance of the skin.
About microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion is available from facialists and estheticians, as well as in doctors' offices. Especially when done in a doctor's office, it is a very safe procedure.
Most microdermabrasion uses sterile aluminum oxide crystals to abrade away the outer layer of the skin. Fine crystals come out of a hand piece that is passed over the skin. These crystals loosen skin cells and are vacuumed up into the machine along with the removed cells.
A treatment gives skin a clearer brighter appearance and a smoother feel. Skin may be slightly pink after a session, but there are generally no aftereffects, and no aftercare needed except for sunscreen.
However, some doctors do not think microdermabrasion does very much. Dr. Arthur W. Perry, a plastic surgeon, writes in his book "Straight Talk about Cosmetic Surgery," that he believes in the technique. He continues, "...the procedure is simply a very good facial."
According to Dr. Perry, microdermabrasion cleans the skin and decreases the appearance of acne. It also allows creams and treatments to penetrate more deeply. Some chemical peels do more than this.
Chemical peels
Chemical peels come in different strengths. Deep phenol peels can permanently change the color of skin, leave obvious lines between treated and untreated areas, and take months to heal completely. Consequently, lighter peels, repeated as necessary, have become more popular.
TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid) peels are medium depth, and can be adjusted to be stronger or milder. They smooth skin, but with fewer aftereffects than a deep peel. However, the average TCA peel may take a week to heal, followed by two weeks of redness. Stronger versions, meant to remove more visible damage, take longer to heal.
Several other substances are used for peels. One peel with no downtime, or nearly none, is the light glycolic acid peel, sometimes called the lunchtime peel. Clients often choose a series of glycolic peels that gradually increase in strength, to markedly improve the appearance of skin without causing it to peel visibly. Glycolic peels do sting, but most patients will not feel a need for pain medication.
Choosing
Microdermabrasion and the lightest glycolic peels both make very subtle changes to the appearance of the skin. As part of a regimen of regular skin care, either will probably contribute to a fresh and rested appearance.
However, peels using stronger concentrations of glycolic acid, or using one of the many other chemical peeling agents, will almost certainly make a more substantial difference in the look of skin than microdermabrasion does. Strong peels, though, probably involve downtime, expense, and discomfort.
Every woman considering facial resurfacing will have to balance the competing factors for herself. Only an individual can know how much of a difference she would like to see in her face, and what she is willing to do to achieve it.
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Use glycolic acid for mild skin problems like minor acne or skin discoloration. It can also improve the appearance of mature skin by lessening fine lines and wrinkles without plastic surgery. Its general effect is to brighten skin tone and soften flaws. Glycolic acid works by loosening dead surface skin cells so they slough off, revealing fresh cells beneath. This natural product is usually refined from sugar cane or sugar beets. It's one of many alpha hydroxy acids. Similar products include lactic acid from milk, malic acid from apples and tartaric acid from grapes. Each has long been used in traditional skin care. Glycolic acid is available in many strengths and formulations. Plastic surgeons, dermatologists and licensed estheticians use 20- to 70-percent concentrations in medical peels. More diluted solutions found in retail lotions and creams usually contain 10 percent or less of glycolic acid, often along with emollients and moisturizers. Home use As part of a facial skin care routine, mild glycolic acid formulations can be used for regular removal of dead skin cells. In low concentrations, glycolic acid will make a gradual but noticeable change in the way skin looks. To use it this way, smooth on a mild glycolic lotion once or twice a day. Start with dry skin, because damp skin dilutes the lotion. Rinse thoroughly, and moisturize if the product does not contain a moisturizer. Apply sunscreen every day without fail, because glycolic acid makes skin more vulnerable to sun damage. Another way to use this product is to apply a glycolic acid lotion in the morning and retinoic acid, Retin-A, at night. Some physicians recommend this routine as preparation for a facial peel or plastic surgery. Again, strong sunscreen is essential. Weak solutions of glycolic acid can soften body skin. Products containing moisturizer as well as glycolic acid are useful to remove rough, dry skin from elbows, knees and feet. Products intended for the body should not be used on the face, however, because they can be too harsh or abrasive. Precautions All alpha hydroxy acids can sting, so start with a patch test by dabbing a small amount in the crook of your elbow. Wait a day, then examine the test area for swelling, itching or redness. If your skin seems to tolerate a particular product, start with a light application. Apply every other day at most for the first week or 10 days. Follow package instructions carefully, and don't rush. You're after a long-term effect. Light chemical peels Used by a professional for a light chemical peel, a stronger solution of glycolic acid can substantially reduce acne scarring, diminish wrinkles and create a more even skin tone by treating hyperpigmentation. Clients are often given a series of mild peels, each requiring little to no recovery time. After the desired look is attained, it can be maintained with an occasional light peel. Glycolic acid is available in many forms. Experiment with higher or lower concentrations and different formulations until you get the effect you want. It's a product that can make a visible difference in your skin. |
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