The process for changing disc brakes is basically the same, regardless of the type of brakes. Disc brakes are manufactured in three distinct groups, non-metallic asbestos, semi-metallic and metallic. Disc brake pads are manufactured in these categories to accommodate the specific type of rotor used.
Rotors are designed with different types of casting material and in single disc and dual disc with cooling vents between the discs. Each rotor has a specific heat rating and the pads are designed to minimize heat to keep the rotors within tolerances. Single disc rotors require metallic or semi-metallic pads to dissipate the excess heat and prevent warping. The metal in the pads is used to draw the heat away from the rotor. Dual disc rotors with cooling fins separating the discs require less metallic or no metallic in the pads.
The best recommendation is to stay with the OEM pads. It serves no real purpose replacing a non-metallic pad with a metallic pad. There is no significant increase in longevity or performance. On the other hand, going from a metallic pad to a non-metallic pad could easily cause the rotors to warp from overheating. The non-metallic pad will not dissipate enough heat and cost more in damage to the rotor.
One of the biggest complaints with disc brakes is squeaking and squealing. The reason for this is that the pad moves and vibrates within its bracket because of imperfections in the rotor. This has been recognized long ago and multitudes of items were introduced to alleviate this problem. One such item is the thin plates shaped like the pad with adhesive backing used to shim the pad in the bracket. Tightening the pad in its bracket can prevent movement associated with squealing. The best item is the liquid rubber called stop squeak. When this rubbery compound is applied to the back of the brake pad prior to installation, it causes a bond between the caliper and the pad.
When replacing brake pads the caliper piston must be compressed back into the caliper bore. All to often the piston is forced back into the bore without opening the bleeder valve. When this is done, the brake fluid is forced back up to the master cylinder and could easily blow the seals out of the master cylinder, which would require replacement. The correct and safest way to compress the piston into the caliper bore is to open the top bleeder screw to allow a release of pressure as the piston is driven into the caliper. There is then no pressure to push the brake fluid back to the master cylinder. Once the piston is compressed, close the bleeder screw and refill the master cylinder.
 | Knowing how to bleed brakes will increase your stopping power, extend the life of brake components and allow you to inspect brake parts. |
 | Replacing rear disk brakes is something that you will rarely have to do. Here's how. |
 | If you know how to change brake fluid, you have a head start in maintaining your car's brakes for years to come. |
Do you know how to bleed ABS brakes? You can't bleed the entire system without specialized equipment, but you can take care of some minor bleeding on your own. |
How do ABS brakes work? They prevent your wheels from locking up at the worst possible time. |
