Do You Dare to Try the Forbidden Stitch?

Chinese embroidery is treasured throughout the world for its fine detail. Many of the embroidery techniques and stitches used today have their roots in antique Chinese embroidery, and no stitch is quite as fabled as the Forbidden Stitch.

Eyestrain or Rank?
The Forbidden Stitch, also known as the Seed Stitch, is a method of filling an area with tiny knots. History offers no examples of it actually being banned, but embroiderers often avoid it because it can be time-consuming and tedious to use.

Two legends exist to explain how the stitch got its name. The first has several variations on the same theme. Because of the complex and fine nature of the stitch, using it was said to cause eyestrain. One story says that the Chinese forbade young women from using it to protect their eyesight. Another version says that the stitch was banned in European embroidery teaching, again because of the risk of eyestrain.

The second legend is based on divisions in Chinese feudal society. In the time of the dynasties, Chinese citizens held specific ranks. Certain forms of Imperial embroidery were reserved for only the highest-ranking members of society, and a lower-ranking person who wore them risked prosecution. One remnant of this heirarchy persists in modern China in the form of the Forbidden City, Beijing's seat of government, which was once off-limits to most Chinese.

Using the Forbidden Stitch
If you've got the patience (and perhaps a loupe), there's nothing to stop you from using the Forbidden Stitch in your projects. It's a very inefficient way to fill space, but the results can be quite dramatic.

To create a Forbidden Stitch, wrap heavy embroidery floss around the tip of the needle before securing it with a stitch. The result is a tiny, built-up knot that adds texture to the front of the piece. Wrapping the floss in different methods can create a look almost like knitted yarn. Thinner wrappings create a seed stitch, which is a small O shape with a knot at the top.