Before starting a sewing project, it is important to learn the basics of reading a sewing pattern.
Choosing Sizes, Fabrics and Notions
Patterns for the home sewer include several sizes and variations - referred to as "views" - of the basic pattern in one envelope. Most women's patterns run in sizes XXS to XL, with individual patterns sold in sizes A or AA (which is XXS, XS and S) and B or BB (M, L and XL).
On the back of the pattern envelope is a chart of body measurements for bust, waist, hip measurement approximately 9 inches below the waist, and back measurement from the neck to natural waist.
It is important to know your personal measurements to choose the correct size as pattern sizes tend to range slightly different - and larger - compared with ready-made garments in stores. The pattern size you will need will be listed under your specific measurements on the pattern envelope.
Located underneath the sizes will be specifics for each view included in the pattern. For example, a jumper pattern might include one view that features pockets on the front, another with a scoop neck, another with a V-neck, and views that are short or long lengths. The various views are designated alphabetically or numerically (view A, B, C or view 1, 2, 3).
Each view sewn in each size will require a specific amount of fabric, and this will be indicated on the back of the envelope underneath the sizes. Since most fabrics available to the home sewer come in 45- or 60-inch widths, the yardage required for the views in each width are required. In other words, a size medium (pattern size 14-16) jumper dress view E (a short, V-necked jumper with pockets on the front) would require 2 ¾ yards of 45-inch fabric, or 2 ¼ yards of 60-inch fabric.
The envelope also will indicate suggested fabrics for the pattern as well as notions needed such as thread, number of buttons and sizes, elastic and other trims. The required interfacing also will be indicated on the envelope.
Pattern Pieces and Directions
A sewing pattern envelope will include folded pattern sheets containing pattern pieces in various sizes. These patterns sheets are printed on tissue paper and can tear easily, so be careful when handling them.
The pattern pieces for the specific length, style and size you are using will need to be unfolded and cut out.
The pattern envelope also will include folded directions.
Upon unfolding the directions, you will see drawings of each pattern piece. Each piece is numbered.
Pattern pieces will be marked with various pictogram symbols to help you read the pattern. In addition, pattern pieces will indicate if the pattern should be turned over and pinned on the fabric for cutting.
A straight black line with an arrow on each end indicates the grain line for the pattern piece. This symbol means the pattern piece should be placed and pinned on the straight (or lengthwise) grain of the fabric parallel to the selvage. Simply put, the line on the pattern piece should run in the same direction as the selvage.
A straight black line with arrows pointing down toward another black line indicates the side or edge of the pattern that should be placed against the fold of the fabric.
Notches are indicated by single or double triangles at specific points on the pattern piece. When cutting out notches, you will need to cut around the triangles to create a "tab" on the fabric. This will later be matched up to a notch or tab on another pattern piece to help align the fabric correctly, such as in the case of sewing on pockets.
Other symbols specific to the pattern or general to all patterns will be included in the direction sheets.
Most patterns are adjustable to numerous sizes. They can be shortened or lengthened according to guidelines printed on the patterns. If a pattern needs to be shortened, you would need to locate the lengthen or shorten lines (usually two thin parallel lines running crosswise on the pattern), then fold the pattern upward to shorten the length.
The directions sheet also will include cutting layout diagrams that will show you how to lay out each pattern piece on your fabric. There will be a cutting layout for each view and each fabric width.
There also will be printed directions for sewing each view. The directions only will be specific for each view but will be the same regardless of size. The directions will also indicate when to use the right side or wrong side of the fabric correctly.
There may be special cutting or sewing instructions, but these will be indicated on the directions sheet.
It is best to look over and thoroughly read through all directions completely to familiarize yourself with the correct steps required for the pattern before you start. Experienced sewers will tell you this is an important step that will save you heartache later on.
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