How to Frame a Wall

If you're renovating or enlarging your home, then knowing how to frame a wall can help save you the cost of hiring a contractor. Wall framing involves basic carpentry skills-a simple partition wall can be framed in place in a few hours.

How To Frame A Wall Correctly
The frame of a wall gives it the strength to stand up and hold the exterior covering. The main parts of a wall frame are the top plate, the sole plate and the studs. The top plate is the uppermost horizontal member of the wall frame. The sole plate is the bottom horizontal member. The studs are the vertical members that make up the largest part of the wall frame.

There are two methods for constructing a wall frame: to build it in place or to build it separately and raise it into position. Building the frame separately (typically on the floor of the room) is easier, but can be difficult in existing spaces with lots of fixed structures. Basements, with all their pipes and ductwork, can make erecting a pre-built wall frame difficult. Building in place requires skillful toe-nailing to set the studs firmly in place, but can be the easier method in tight spaces.

The following steps show how to pre-build a simple partition wall frame:

• Materials. Partition frames are typically constructed out of 2 x 4 lumber. 2 x 6 lumber can be used for walls that will have plumbing or that extra room for sound insulation. Select the straightest boards you can find-for the ultimate in straightness, consider engineered wood.
• Measure carefully. Measure the size of the cavity where the wall will go. Snap a chalk line on the floor and ceiling to mark the centerline of the new wall. Measure the floor to ceiling height in several places along the chalk line to establish the height of the wall section.
• Cut the pieces. Cut the top and sole plates to length.
• Mark the plates. Your studs should be spaced 16" on center. Beginning from one end of the top plate, make a mark every 16" along the length of the plate. Make two additional marks ¾" on either side of each stud mark. These marks show the outside edge of each stud. Lay the plates side by side and square them at one end. Using a combination square, transfer the marks to each plate, creating a series of parallel lines. Mark an "X" on the inside of each set of line to remind you of the location of the studs.
• Cut the studs. Subtract 3-1/2" from the wall height and use this measurement to cut the stud lengths. Count the number of "X" marks on your plates and cut the same number of studs to the correct measurement.
• Attach the studs. Layout the pieces on the floor and nail the studs to the top and sole plate using 16d nails. Use two nails for each end of the studs and make sure your studs are lined up on the "X" marks.
• Got doors? If your wall will have a door opening, measure an area 2" taller and wider than the door size for the doorframe. A doorframe is like a miniature wall frame: A top plate (called a header) is connected to vertical studs called jack studs. Above a door header are short studs called cripple studs. The full studs on the outside of the doorframe are called king studs and connect directly to the jack studs next to them.
• Lift the wall. Carefully lift the wall into place. For tight fits, use a mallet and a scrap piece of wood to tap the wall into place. For low spots, insert thin shims to fill in the gaps. Check the wall to make sure it's plumb and square.
• Attach the wall. Nail the top plate into ceiling joists with 16d nails. If the wall runs parallel to joists, install cross blocking to form a nailing surface for the top plate. Nail the sole plate into floor joists through the sub-floor of the room. If the floor is concrete, drill through the sole plate and use masonry screws or nails.