Plans to Build Your Own Table Saw Miter

One of the main reasons for owning a table saw is to make fast accurate cuts. But what if you want to go beyond plain rips and crosscuts? These table saw miter plans will help you construct a jig that will deliver perfect 45 degree cuts every time. This type of table saw miter jig is perfect for making accurate framing for pictures, doors or windows.

Materials
(1) 18-1/4" by 12-1/2" sheet of ½" Baltic Birch Plywood, for the base. Baltic Birch is stable and won't warp or bend.
(1) 1" by 1-3/8" by 3' length of Oak or Maple, for the fence. Using a hardwood will help the jig maintain its accuracy. Cut this piece in half using a 45-degree cut.
(2) ¾" by 3/8" by 17-1/2" strips of Oak or Maple, for the runners. Test fit the runners to make sure they fit securely, yet still allow for movement.
(10) #8 by 1 flat head Brass Wood Screws.

The Base

• Place a runner into each of the table saw miter slot guides.
• Lay the ½" plywood base over the runners with the long side perpendicular to the table saw miter slot guides. Align the base with the long side lined up with the bottom edge of each runner and centered on the blade.
• With these pieces in place, drill three evenly spaced, 5/32" shank holes on each side of the base and into the runners. Drill these holes far enough into the runners to mark their position.
• Remove the pieces from the table saw and drill 7/64" pilot holes through the runners at the marked positions.
• Return the base and runners to their previous positions, lining up the pre-drilled holes.
• Attach the runners with countersunk #8 x 1" wood screws. Drive the screws about halfway through the runners, and then lift the base off the table.
• Drive the screws completely and remove the tips so they are flush with the bottom of the runners.
• Return the base to the table saw miter slot guides and, using the table saw, cut a 6-1/2" kerf slot through the plywood.

Adding the Fences

• Along the kerf edge, make a mark 3-1/4" from the top edge of the base.
• Align a combination square along the kerf and draw a 45-degree line on the face of the base that intersects your earlier mark.
• Place the right-hand fence piece, lining up the leading edge with your pencil line, and the angled face with the kerf edge.
• Attach the right-hand fence piece temporarily with two #8 x 1" wood screws.
• Place the left-hand fence piece on the base, roughly lining up the angled face with the kerf edge.
• Use the 90-degree corner of a high quality, plastic engineering or draftsman's triangle to align the left-hand fence piece with the right-hand piece.
• Attach the left-hand fence piece temporarily with two #8 x 1" wood screws.
• Test the fence by making four sample cuts on some 1" stock. Place the sample pieces in a square and check the miter edges for alignment.
• Adjust the position of the fence arms by gently tapping with a hammer.
• When the fence arms are in the right positions, secure them by tightening the screws completely.
• Attach adhesive-backed sandpaper to the fence faces to hold your work steady.